All boy chipboard tags

This was made when i was in australia products used were from kaszazz products

Items used:

6 chip board tags
assorted all boy patten paper
white card stock
1 black gel pen for writing
1 ring to join them all together
20 cm white ribbon
distress ink pad - brown to distress the edges of the tags

Photography

You don't need to be a professional photographer to capture picture-perfect moments. Life is like a camera: Simply focus on the important things. Then make your photographs the centrepiece of a meaningful album. Here are some helpful tips. Composition Tips Keep your camera ready Keep the camera close at hand to capture the big and little moments in life. Extra batteries are a must, too. And to make sure your images are free of imperfections, carry a photographic cleaning solution and lint-free paper to keep your lens clean. Get close to your subject Eliminate distractions and background noise by getting close to your subject. When photographing children, get down to the child's level. Remember the basics The rule of thirds works well as you mentally set up your shots. For example, for an outdoor scene place the horizon one-third from the top or one-third from the bottom of your viewfinder. When taking a photo of a single subject, such as a person, place them in the left one-third or right one-third of the viewfinder. Be patient Take a few moments to walk around and look at the subject and the background. Notice how different angles and light affect how things look through your viewfinder. Think about what you want to remember from the scene and capture it. Digital cameras also function using ISO standards. See your user manual for details. Turn your camera Instead of taking all of your photographs in a horizontal format, turn your camera to capture some shots in a vertical format. You can mount both horizontal and vertical photos in your Creative Memories album. Hold your camera steady or use a tripod Holding the camera steady and pushing the shutter button gently are necessary for sharp, clear pictures. A tripod will hold the camera motionless and allow you to concentrate on the composition of your photos. Camera Tips When to use your flash The flash will provide extra light when used indoors and will fill shadows and brighten colours when used outdoors. Using the fill-flash feature will accomplish this at a more subtle level. Turning off the flash is just as important when natural or low light is preferred. You may want to capture a silhouette against a sunset, blowing the candles out on a birthday cake or capturing the scene around a campfire. These are all examples of when you would turn the flash off. Reduce red-eye Red-eye occurs when the camera flash reflects off the interior surface of the eye. There are a few ways to reduce red-eye. You could increase the overall lighting in the room. Or you could make sure the subject is not looking directly at the camera. Most cameras have a red-eye setting that will help reduce this problem by firing a pre-flash that allows the eyes to adjust before the image is captured. Choose the right speed Film is available in different speeds: 100, 200, 400, etc. The speed, or ISO rating, is a standardised way to define the film’s sensitivity to light. The lower numbers (100, 200, etc.) indicate lower film speeds. The film speed roughly corresponds to the time it takes to snap a picture (shutter speed). A low film speed (200) requires the shutter to be open longer to gather enough light for a decent exposure. High film speeds of 400 or more are best for indoor shots without having to use a flash. For action photos (sports events), 400 or 800 ISO will give the best results. Digital cameras also function using ISO standards. See your user manual for details.

Journalling

Journaling is the details you write about the photos on your page. Traditional scrapbooking included a lot of journaling, as the whole point was to record memories such as dates, names, and occasions. Nowadays, journaling has become less important to some scrapbookers, and many don’t journal at all. How much journaling you do is a personal choice, but consider that you may not remember the details in years to come, if you haven’t written them down.

Scrapbookers Dictionary

Acetate. A synthetic filament, Yarn , or material derived from the acetic ester of cellulose, which doesn?t mean much except to chemists. But for scrapbookers it?s important to note that this substance causes photographs and documents to deteriorate and fade. Tri-acetates are archival; di-acetates are not.

Acid. Not to be confused with what the illegal drugs addicts drop. Acids are substances that have pH value of less than 7. When paper is made it uses chemicals that are acidic. Over time, these chemicals cause paper to "yellow" or "brown" and ruin photographs.

Acidic. A term used when something contains acid or has a pH level lower than 7.0.

Acid-free. Often used as a compound adjective "acid-free" and the mantra of serious scrapbookers. If a product is acid-free, technically it means it has a pH value of less than 7.0, but more importantly it means that it won?t ruin photographs or cause paper fibers to disintegrate, become brittle, crack, or turn "brown." See alkaline.

Acid migration. Acid can migrate from acidic materials to non-acidic or pH neutral materials through direct contact or indirectly from gases produced by the acidic materials. For example, storing scrapbook pages in acidic albums can cause damage to the pages from the gases emitted by the covers. Greater and quicker damage comes from placing pages or photos in direct contact with paper, cardstock, ink or adhesives that are not acid-free. Paper can become acidic over time if it is not buffered.

Acrylics. A particular family of plastics important to the archival process because of the low-or non-existent acidity, and because they are very stable, light-weight, weather-resistant, and colorfast, and can be made transparent. In other words, scrapbookers want page protectors and other materials made from acrylic substances and not vinyl.

Adhesive. Glue, paste, tape or other substance that causes things to stick together.

Alkaline. Substances that have a pH level of more than 7.0 are alkaline and are the opposite of acidic. Paper products having a high alkaline content are more permanent and durable.

Archival. Used to denote that a material is permanent, durable, chemically stable or long-lasting, and can therefore be safely used for preservation of photos, writing, etc. The term is also sometimes used to mean "acid-free." Unfortunately, there are no standards to determine how durable or how "permanent" an item is that is designated "archival." Knowing how important the term "archival" is to scrapbookers, it i sometimes for manufacturers to label their items "archival" inappropriately. The term also refers to storage procedures that are reversible and do not permanently alter an item. So, scrapbookers ideally use only those items that are archival for their albums so that they will last a very, very long time.

Bond (or writing) paper. A superior variety of paper used primarily for journals, histories, genealogy, letters, and in computer printers and copy machines.

Buffer. An alkaline substance [generally calcium carbonate (CaCO3)] added to the paper to make it acid-free.

Buffered. A term used in the paper industry indicating that an alkaline filler has been added during the paper-making process, which makes the paper acid-free. It also increases the smoothness of the paper surface, improves brightness and opacity, and helps prevent ink from feathering. The alkaline reserve in the paper helps absorb any acid found in items mounted on it (such as a birthday card), thereby protecting the photos from possible corruption from the acidic item. Some experts disagree about the efficacy of buffering, and the possibility that it may affect the stability of color photos.

Calcium carbonate (CaCO3). The primary filler added in the paper-making process that makes paper acid-free. Hurray for CaC03!

Cardstock (cover paper). A general term for heavier papers commonly used for the covers of catalogs and brochures, and frequently used in scrapbooking. The correct term for heavier-weight paper is cover paper. Scrapbookers usually prefer to use cardstock (cover paper) because of its texture and weight.

Carrier. The liquid that makes the ink flow out of a pen.

CD-ROM. A compact disc that can store large amounts of digitized photographs and data files.

Cellulose-nitrate negative. A negative film used prior to 1950.

Chlorophenal red. A chemical that indicates the pH of paper (or if the paper is acid-free) when used in a pH test.

Coated paper. A paper with a finishing layer on one or both sides of the core sheet. This is done to improve its finish in terms of printability, color, smoothness, opacity, etc.

Colorfast. A pigment or dye that is resistant to environmental exposure, such as light, acid, heat and other atmospheric conditions. Scrapbookers use colorfast pens to preserve the journaling and other writing that they add to their albums.

Condensation. Humidity that is trapped and forms a vapor, causing mold, water stains and deterioration of stored valuables. Water damage, including that from condensation is highly dangerous to photos and album pages. Be sure to store your albums in dry areas and off of floors that may be humid or flooded.

Conservation. The care and treatment that attempts to stabilize items (such as paper documents, photographs, textiles or memorabilia) through chemical means or by strengthening items physically, which results in sustaining the items' survival for as long as possible in their original form. Scrapbookers aid in this process by securing their photos to pages with journaling about their contents.

Copy negative. A negative made by reproducing a photograph or reproducing flat artwork. The negative can then be used to make enlargements, reductions, or other prints.

Cover paper. A heavier paper that adds some stability to photographs without adding bulk to your book. See cardstock.

Cropping. Altering the boundaries of a finished photograph by trimming or masking the photograph.

Dark-storage life. Relating to the length photographic material will remain in its original condition before deteriorating.

Deacidification. An alkaline-salt process that raises the pH level in paper. It impregnates the paper with a high alkaline reserve and neutralizes existing acids while preventing the development of future acids.

Digital. A process that uses numerical digits to create a uniform picture on a computer.

Digital camera. A camera that creates a photograph in digital form.

Durability. An item's ability to resist the effects of wear and tear from use.

Dye. A colored substance (which is soluble) that is added to ink, paper and textiles. Generally speaking, dye colors are not permanent enough to be used for fine-art applications where long-term lightfastness is required. Scrapbookers usually prefer pigment-based inks for use in their albums.

Emulsion. The silver-gelatin image layer of the processed film.

Encapsulation. A safe process for protecting valuable newspaper articles and other paper documents.

Fiber-based paper (FB). A photographic paper used to develop black-and-white photographs. Because of the way it is made, fiber-based paper can have a 200-year life expectancy (if taken care of and processed correctly). Formerly, it was the standard type of photographic paper, but today, fiber-based paper is mainly used for fine-art black-and-white prints.

Fugitive dye. A dye that is not permanent. It will fade when exposed to light, run when water is applied, and will transfer color to other items.

Groundwood pulp. A wood pulp produced by mechanically grinding logs. It is primarily used to make low-grade papers for newspapers and magazines. Under the best of conditions, these usually last no more than 25 years.

Hand tinting (hand coloring). The process of applying colors with oils or dyes to the surface of a black-and-white photograph, giving it the appearance of a colored photograph.

Humidity. The measurement of the moisture content of air.

Interleaving. An acid-free sheet that is placed between pages in a scrapbook (or in organizing) when no sheet protector is used. The sheet prevents a photo from touching another one, which could result in scratching and damage to the emulsion.

Lamination. The permanent bonding of two layers of plastic film to one or two sides of a flat item. This process is done by applying high heat and pressure (which makes it irreversible) and is not recommended for valuable items.

Lightfast. A term describing a material not affected or faded by sunlight, fluorescent tubes and light bulbs.

Lignin. The substance that gives plants and trees their strength and rigidity, and also binds wood fibers together. When wood is broken down to make paper, the lignin becomes unstable. Paper that contains large amounts of lignin, such as newsprint, is very acidic and will turn yellow when exposed to light and humidity. If paper containing lignin touches your photos, they too can turn yellow.

Lignin free. Often written lignan-free. To be considered lignin-free, paper can contain a maximum of one percent lignin.

Memory card. A card that stores information in an electronic format for digital cameras and small computers.

Migration. The transfer of chemicals to neighboring materials. Example: An acidic paper can make an item next to it acidic because the chemicals migrate.

Mylar D. An uncoated, clear, polyester plastic made by Dupont. It is chemically stable and does not release harmful gases. Mylar D is used in sheet protectors and photograph sleeves and is safe for encapsulation.

Neutral pH. The center reading of 7.0 on the pH scale of 0-14. It is neither acidic nor alkaline. For manufacturers, the acceptable pH neutral range is from 6.5-7.5.

Non-bleeding. A term that describes an ink that does not spread from the original mark on the paper's surface. Non-bleeding depends on both the degree of sizing in the paper and the use of solvents (other than water) in ink.

Non-migrating. A composition in a material that will not transfer or spread to a neighboring item.

Odorless. Having no odor. An odor may be a sign of a chemical breakdown. The emitted gas will speed up the deterioration of stored materials; therefore, most products used in preservation should be odorless. Note: The one exception is inks that use preservatives with a slight odor.

Opaque. Any substance or surface that will not allow any light to pass through. It is the opposite of transparent.

page protectors . Transparent plastic sheets used to display and protect pages. One of the primary staples of experienced scrapbookers. Caution: do not use vinyl page protectors ; they are acidic.

pH. A measurement of the degree of acidity and alkalinity. On a scale ranging from 0-14, pH 7.0 is neutral, above 7.0 is alkaline (or acid-free) and below 7.0 is acidic. The scale is a logarithmic progression, meaning 6.0 is 10 times more acidic than 7.0. pH can only be measured on water-soluble materials. Note: The letters "pH" come from the French words for "hydrogen power."

Permanence. A term referring to a material's ability to maintain its strength and color over an extended period of time (in some cases, several hundred years) without significant deterioration under normal use and storage conditions.

Permanent. A term describing materials that are chemically stable. Permanent materials are not prone to deterioration (either from internal chemical reactions or from reactions with the environment) under normal use and prudent storage conditions(i.e. not too hot or humid).

Photographic Processes. In studying color, there are two processes that you hear talked about, additive and subtractive. "Additive Color Process" uses the three primary colors, red, yellow and blue, to make other colors combining appropriate proportions of three primary colors. "Subtractive Color Process" removes all but the desired colors. This is done by passing light through a filter which subtracts all other colors.

Pigment. A dry, powdery agent that possesses color. A pigment will not adhere to a surface, so a binder is required to unite the pigment to paper. A pigment does not dissolve in liquid and all pigments of very high quality will endure indefinitely under proper conditions, although some may undergo loss of color if exposed to direct sunlight.

Plasticizer. An unsafe softening agent added in the manufacturing of plastics, adhesives, or paper to make them soft and flexible.

Polyester. A clear, inert, uncoated, strong plastic used in preservation procedures, to improve the wet and dry strength of an item. Polyester is used in making folders, book jackets and sheet protectors, and is also used for encapsulation. Common trade names are Mylar D and Melinex by Dupont.

Polyethylene. A flexible, chemically stable, naturally slippery plastic with little tendency to cling. It is normally manufactured without anti-block and slip agents. Polyethylene is used primarily in the manufacturing of photographic sleeves and poly bags. It can also be used to protect brittle paper, by placing the paper between two sheets of the film, then sealing it with double-sided adhesive tape around the edges.

Polypropylene. A clear, pliable, chemically stable plastic used in the manufacturing of photographic sleeves.

Polyvinyl acetate (PVA). A plastic with properties that cause photographs and documents to deteriorate and fade. Note: The pH-neutral glue called "PVA," which is commonly used for book binding and box making, is not suitable for use with photographs.

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC). An unstable plastic, generally called "vinyl" and "Naugahyde," that may exude oily plasticizers or emit corrosive and acidic hydrogen-chloride gas. It is easily identified by its strong plastic odor. Do not use sheet protectors, binders, photo enclosures, corners or any other product made from vinyl with your photographs, negatives and memorabilia.

Post-consumer waste. Paper that has been recovered following consumer use.

Pre-consumer waste. Paper that has been recovered following the paper-making process, but before being used by consumers.

Preservation. The act of stabilizing an item from deterioration by using the correct methods and materials designed to maintain the conditions and longevity of the item. We scrapbookers take this process very seriously, as well as having a lot of fun with it!

Pulp. A wet slurry of fibers and water that is the basic ingredient of paper.

Rag paper. Paper made from fibers of non-wood origin, including cotton rags, cotton linters, or cotton or linen pulp. Rag papers contain from 25 to 100 percent cotton-fiber pulp, making them durable and, if alkaline, permanent. It is a misconception that 100 percent rag is pH neutral.

Ream. A ream is 500 sheets of paper, regardless of the paper size or thickness.

Recycled paper. Paper that meets the minimum reclaimed-content standards established by federal, state and municipal governments, and the paper industry. Fiber content usually consists of post- and pre-consumer reclaimed fiber plus virgin pulp. The acidity of this paper can be determined by a pH testing pen.

Red eye. The bright pink or red color that can appear in the pupils of people or animals pictured in a photo when a flash is used.

Resin-coated paper (RC). A photographic paper with a water-resistant backing that absorbs less moisture than fiber-based photos, consequently reducing processing time.

Reversible. A preservation process or treatment that can be undone without changing the object, returning it to its original state.

Safety film. Film introduced in the 1950s that replaced the volatile cellulose-nitrate film. It is called safety film because it is made from an acetate base that is not flammable; it will melt but not burn.

Scanned image. An digital image that has been created by a computer scanner. This image can then be edited and placed on an Internet website to be viewed by others.

Sepia. A brownish color produced on photographs in the photographic process. The process of creating sepia ink pigment does use some acid. Because acid in ink is as detrimental to paper as acid is in the paper itself. Although sepia inks are reasonably permanent in dull light, they tend to fade rapidly when exposed to bright natural light.

Sizing. A coating applied to the paper surface that increases water resistance, eliminates abrasiveness and fuzz, and improves bonding strength.

Slipcase. An open-ended box that holds a binder. It serves to put contents in dark storage and protect them from dust and light.

Solvent. A substance that dissolves another substance to form a solution. Example: Water is a solvent for sugar.

Substrate. A surface or medium on which inks may be applied, such as paper, canvas or plastic.

Text paper. A general term for light-weight papers commonly used for stationery. Text paper is an uncoated printing paper of unusually high quality, available in a wide range of finishes and colors.

Transparency. A positive photographic image on a clear base film that has to be viewed on a light table or in a slide projector. (Commonly called a slide.)

Vinyl. See polyvinyl chloride.

Unbuffered. During the paper-making process, the buffering step is sometimes eliminated. If a buffer or alkaline compound is added during the paper-making process, the paper is acid-free (or alkaline). Some conservators state that buffering reacts with a photograph's top emulsion layer as well as with silk and wool textiles. When interleaving photographic materials, an unbuffered paper is preferred. Note: An unbuffered sheet is vulnerable to migrating, and atmospheric acids and pollutants.

Water soluble. A substance that dissolves in water. Water-soluble inks are not suitable for permanent/archival use by scrapbookers.

Scrapbooking from A to Z

I got this article from scrapbook. com thought i would share this i thought this was really goor for you new beginners aout there

A - ACID-FREE

Papers, photos, and keepsakes can deteriorate over time. That deterioration may be subtle or obvious and generally comes from exposure to acidic materials. The more acids and chemicals present in paper products, or products to which the paper is exposed, the greater the destruction. The photos and memorabilia you have saved are currently responding to chemicals and or the acids in or near them. When you store photos, paper, and keepsakes with other items that have acid in them or store them in containers that are acidic, there is always a reaction that increases the decay process. And don't be fooled by thinking you can, for example, use acid-free materials on your pages and store them in acidic sheet protectors or albums. Acid migrates from item to item. Using acid-free products (paper, stickers, adhesives, pens, die cuts, color copies, sheet protectors, mounting corners, etc.) should be a priority, since it insures that you have quality scrapbooks preserved for future generations to enjoy.

B - BEGIN WITH THE END IN MIND

When you know where you want to go, the journey is much more enjoyable. In order to scrapbook, you'll need to make some decisions about organizing, displaying and protecting your photographs and memorabilia. This article will help you make those decisions. Items to be scrapbooked are placed in a creative and eye-pleasing manner on pages (layouts) in chronological order or by themes. The papers used for these layouts comes in two basic sizes 8?"x11" or 12"x12". Once pages have been created and completed, they need sheet protectors to keep them safe and albums for storing them. You will also need a place to store your albums?a shelf, tabletop or bookcase.

C - CROPPING

In scrapbooking, the term cropping means cutting away covering up that which is not wanted. You may also hear the word cropping in conjunction with parties or get-togethers. Hence, a late-night crop is an evening of scrapbooking with friends or fellow scrapbookers. But for now, we'll address the cropping of photos.

One of the saddest things I see on new scrapbookers' pages are photos that have been cut too small or crooked. Think BEFORE you ever cut a photograph. The most important part of a layout is your photographs. Cutting them smaller may defeat the whole purpose for putting them onto a page. You may someday regret that you cropped away your first car or an old friend out of a photograph. Cut out ONLY DISTRACTING images that detract from the feel of the event, i.e., fingers that got in the way of the shutter, clutter on the floor, distracting shrubbery, or telephone lines or undies dangling out of the drawer. Some new scrapbookers see the colorful assortments of decorative scissors that are available and want to use them on everything. I have found that decorative scissors are best used on cardstock and paper instead of photos. Photos with straight-cut edges are eye-pleasing as are mats with decorative edges to complement these photos. See our article: "Cropping, That Special Touch," for additional instruction.

I suggest that you NEVER crop a professional portrait. These will be priceless heirlooms for future generations. Your portraits may, one day, be displayed on the walls of your great-great grandchildren's homes. I strongly suggest that you NEVER mount them directly to your background papers with adhesives. Use photo corners instead. If you want a portrait to have another shape to it, i.e., oval), cut paper or cardstock as a "mat" and lay it over the portrait. NEVER cut a Polaroid photograph; mat it. A chemical reaction takes place with air and the Polaroid image disappears. Use photo corners and/or mats on photos that are over 30-40 years old. The backs of these photos are raw paper and aren't coated like photos of today. If a photo later needs to be removed from a layout (to make copies, to put on a different page, etc.), the adhesive can rip away some of the paper backing or cause the photo to tear.

D - DO'S AND DON'TS

Do:

• Wash your hands before you work!
• Invest in an acid-free testing pen to check everything you want to put into your scrapbooks.
• Use polypropylene or Mylar D sheet protectors.
• Look at the work of other accomplished scrapbookers to find a style that fits you. Check out the Featured Artists and Scrapbook.com Gallery for examples
• Find a specific and consistent time to scrapbook.
• Have a special place where you can store your materials and when possible, scrapbook in that area.
• Store your albums upright and out of sunlight.

Don't:

• Have food or drinks on the tables where you scrapbook.
• Leave scrapbooks in the car. (Avoid heat destruction or theft.)
• Laminate photographs and other valuable documents.
• Use sheet protectors made from poly-vinyl chloride (PVC) or acetate!
• Set goals that are not achievable.

E - ENJOY

Enjoy your scrapbooking hobby and talent. Each layout doesn't have to be a masterpiece. People scrapbook for different reasons. For some, the most enjoyable layouts are works of art that take extra time. For others, simple layouts bring them joy. Scrapbooking can be a pleasure when you set the boundaries for yourself. I have scrapbooked with deadlines and often the fun left, and it became a task. I have also had scrapbooker burn-out from doing too much in too little time. Then again, some would never finish an album if pressure weren't applied. Whatever your reasons for scrapbooking, enjoy them. See our Yearly Album Challenge that is announced in our newsletter and featured on our bulletin boards . Be sure to sign-up for the newsletter if you want to some extra motivation.

F - FROM BOXES TO BOOKS: ORGANIZING

Where do you start with your stacks and boxes full of photographs and mementos? It's normal to feel overwhelmed. Anyone who has completed scrapbooks started out just like you. Here are simple guidelines to get you started:

1. Gather all photographs, negatives and other keepsakes into one place.

2. Sort them into separate boxes-one for each family member.

3. Further separate these items into two categories:

a. Items that can be placed into a scrapbook (programs, photos, drawings, important letters, certificates, ribbons and so on).

b. Items too large or bulky for a scrapbook that need to stay in the box (trophies, medals, special clothing, baby blankets, favorite toys). These can possibly be photographed, color copied or scanned at a later time for placement into your scrapbooks. See the article "Color Copying Scrapbooks." Label the box. Start a notebook for future reference that lists the box contents and the box they can be found in).

4. Sort items that will go onto pages in chronological order into a large accordion file or into file folders. Have one or two files that hold all the material for each person initially. Work from these files until everything is sorted into it's own file. This insures that items won't get mixed up again.

5. Label each file folder in one-year increments (or every five years for limited photos) of the person's life.

Example: Whitney Davis 8-14-93 to 8-14-94 (birth to age 1)

Whitney Davis 8-14-94 to 8-14-95 (age 1)

NOTE: Files can be set up to go from birthday to birthday, from school year to school year, or from January to January. It works well for many people to go from birthday to birthday until kindergarten and then change from school year to school year. After graduation it seems to work well to create files for separate events (i.e., college, job, travel, and wedding).

6. Sort doubles of photos into two stacks. Use a "photo-safe" pencil or pen to label the back of ALL photos with "Who? What? Why? Where? When? information. In years to come, you'll be glad you took the time to label photos. Then, if a photo is separated from the stack of photos or a complete scrapbook page, it can easily be returned to where it belongs. Place one photo into the appropriate file and keep the other with your negatives. File these photos and negatives chronologically in acid-free envelopes or an acid-free storage box. Date each envelope and briefly describe the event(s) on the outside. Store this box away from your scrapbooks?a safe deposit box is the safest place. Scanning and storing all your photos (and your pages) onto a CD or Zip disk, or using an online storage site or other electronic media are other options.

7. Remember that box of keepsakes that could be color copied or scanned? Put a Post-it-Note? on the files where applicable to remind you to incorporated those items into the pages you will be creating. Keep a piece of notebook paper in each file to jot down the memories that come as you work. These notes will be used later to "journal" your pages.

8. Start working on scrapbook pages from present events, then work back through time. Dates, times and details of current events are fresh in your mind. By working back through time, you also have the benefit of your first pages (which very few scrapbooks love) being hidden and not being obvious at the front of your first album..

G - GET STARTED

Supplies:

Purchase a limited amount of basic supplies and borrow equipment for your first scrapbook pages. Decide after scrapbooking for a while if this is worth a significant amount time and money. Below is a modest list to start with.

1. Album (when full, store upright)

2. Sheet protectors (free from PVC)

3. Cardstock (acid-free), is used for the background on pages so that photos won't bend when mounted or when pages are turned)

4. Photo-safe pencil for writing data on photo backs

5. Pencil

6. Eraser, white polymer

7. Ruler

8. Cutting tools: straight-edged scissors (one regular, one embroidery-size with sharp points), a personal trimmer (that uses replaceable blades), Exacto knife

9. Archival pens that are permanent, waterproof, light-fast and fade- proof in fine point (.005) and broad point (.08)

10. Adhesives (liquids, tapes, tabs or pastes)

11. Photo Corners

The Process:

1. Choose a few of the best photos from a single event, and discard the blurry ones or photos that don't help tell the story. You should have from three to five photos left to scrapbook.

2. Pick one focal point photo that best depicts what your layout will be about. It should be the largest photo, so don't do much cropping on it. Crop the other photos only if necessary.

3. Choose a theme for the page. This will become your title. If you have a difficult time with titles, you may want to check our the Scrapbook.com "Play on Words" electronic book.

4. Choose cardstock that complements your photos. Look at the whole scene in your photos and see what colors are dominant. Use these in your background paper and mats for your photos. You can use an extra layer or two of color to mat your focal point photo so that it stands out. Mount photos using corner mounts and/or and adhesive. Make title and journal boxes and finish with lettering.

5. Arrange the photos, title and journal boxes on the background paper in a pleasing manner. If there are too many photos for one page, do a two-page spread. For ideas on layouts, see our Scrapbook.com Page Gallery.

6. When you are satisfied with your arrangement, secure all pieces in place with an acid-free adhesive.

H - HISTORY IN THE MAKING

What you scrapbook today will be history tomorrow. Are you preserving worthwhile memories that someone will enjoy looking at and reading about in the future? Do they tell a story? Does every page answer the vital questions: "Who?" "What?" "Why?" "When?" "Where?" and sometimes "How?"

I - IMAGINATION AND CREATIVITY

Today there are more scrapbooking products available than you can imagine to help you do great artwork. Just a few years ago, you had to hand letter page titles. Now you can design them on your computer or with die cuts, add the colors you want, or you can buy the preprinted title, with mats and diE-Cuts that all match by theme. Making your own mats, title boxes and die cuts, however, is still the most economical way to scrapbook.

J - JOURNALING

Journaling is second only to the photos on a scrapbook page. Including the information that answers "Who?" "What?" "Why?" "Where?" "When?" and "How?" increases the value of the page. Pertinent information of your life now will be significant and interesting to someone in the future. Journaling can also be thoughts and poems that help to preserve the memory of the event(s) in the photos. Make your pages interesting to look at and fun to learn from. Always use acid-free pens.

K - KEEP IT SIMPLE

More is not always better in scrapbooking. Remember that the photos and the memories associated with those photos make up the most important part of a page. Papers, stickers, die cuts and other embellishments only help tell the story. Any good story always focuses on the characters.

L - LETTERING

Lettering is different that handwriting. Lettering is a series of geometric shapes and lines put together to form letters. The more you practice lettering styles the more your confidence grows. Practice Makes Permanent! Any lettering should complement the photos and story. Using fancy frilly letters on the page of a little boy collecting bugs wouldn't be as appropriate as thick and solid letters with bugs added. Titles that depict what is happening in your photos are sometimes hard to come up with. The Scrapbook.com Play On Words is an excellent resource and help for titles that you will hand letter or create on your computer. A title for each new page will help your scrapbook flow smoothly. Write everything in pencil first. Choose ink, colored pencils and chalk colors that complement your photos.

M - MANAGE YOUR TIME

Our lives are full of things that have to be done. Is there ever time left to do the things we want to do? I can give you an emphatic yes to that question. By setting aside a regular time to scrapbook it becomes a priority. I have found extra time through effective housecleaning and by finding recipes for meals that seem to fix themselves. (See the article "The Ultimate Secret Weapon...In the Fight for Scrapbooking Time" in the Articles and Tips Section of the Learning Center).

N - NEWSPAPER CLIPPINGS

If you save newspaper clippings you can de-acidify them with Archival Mist or your can color copy them. The Scrapbook.com Store is one of the few places we know of that carries Archival Mist.

O - ORGANIZING

I was at a meeting once when a man joked that organizing was for people who were too lazy to look for things. As funny as that comment is, there are plenty of people who live that way at certain times in their lives. I also attended a workshop on organizing where the teacher stated that if it takes longer that 15 minutes to find something, it's time to change your organizational system. It is fun and so easy to scrapbook when your photos and supplies are organized and your workplace is clear. I can collect my thoughts and photos in just a few minutes if I know where everything is. Think about how you now have things organized and how you could improve your system.

P - PHOTOGRAPHS

Photographs are the heart of scrapbooking. Knowing how to take good photos and how to use your camera lets you turn ordinary into interesting, and memorable into captivating. If you're in the market to purchase a new camera, unless you are really interested in photography, purchase one that does everything automatically. Ideas: Take photos of a child on his/her birthday with fingers up to show how old they are. Take photos of you alone with each child, then write them a letter expressing your feelings about them and add it to their own scrapbook. Do the same thing with your spouse. Take photos of your homes. Take photos of everyday living that would interest someone 20 years from now?like you climbing into your new car...it will be a relic one day.

TIP: NEVER cut a Polaroid print. A chemical reaction takes place with air and the image will eventually disappear. Always use photo corners and/or mats over photos that are over 30 years old. These photos may not have a negative and many old photos don't have protective coatings.

Damage to photos occurs from:

• Sunlight
• "Magnetic" photo albums (those with "sticky" pages)
• Water & humidity
• Rough handling - getting bent, ripped or scratched
• Dirty or oily hands
• Fluctuating temperature: basements and attics
• Highly acid surroundings
• Regular ink pens used to write on the backside
• Contact with acidic materials (see "Acid-Free" above)

Q - QUALITY PAPER PRODUCTS

All papers, die cuts, stickers, printed die cuts and title cards need to be acid-free to insure that your photos will be safe for years to come. Buy from a reputable company or store and check your products with an acid-testing pen. Through the years I have seen companies cut costs by using paper and cardstock that isn't acid-free and not inform the buyer. Buyer, beware .

R - RECORD

If you don't have time to write lengthy journal entries, consider the Five-Year- Journal . With this unique journal you are able to record the events of the day quickly and permanently. When you scrapbook an event, you can locate that time in your journal quickly to see if anything else significant to your scrapbook page was going on and journal the page accordingly. Well kept records are a plus to scrapbooking. They make pages more interesting as we compare life now to what it use to be. We can learn about ourselves from our records.

S - STORAGE

Every scrapbooking product and tool is easier to locate and used when it has a safe place for storage. Storage containers work well for larger items and for those smaller pieces, use baseball card sheet protectors in a notebook.

T - THEMES

Scrapbooking is more effective when done with a theme in mind. Organizing stickers, die cuts, and page ideas by theme saves time and effort.

U - UNDERSTAND THAT...

Scrapbooking is a journey and not a destination!

V - VINTAGE PHOTOGRAPHS

Old photographs and portraits need to be taken out of those acidic photo mats/frames that were used years ago. Use your acid-testing pen to check the acid content. I always make color copies of old photographs that are passed on to me. This enables me to put the copy in a frame for my home and keep the originals in the safe environment of a scrapbook. Old photos look best when mounted in scrapbooks on deep, rich colors. Modern products, such as stickers and die cuts detract from the feeling of old photos. When in doubt, keep it simple. Deckle edge scissors are designed to duplicate the jagged finished edges of older photos. Remember: don't crop old photos; mat them. Handle with care. Don't mount with adhesives; use photo corners.

W - WORKSTATIONS

The ideal workstation is the one that has all your materials organized and within reach. It should be easy to find things and put them away. Have a large work surface on which to spread everything out. Have shelves to store your supplies. Have efficient storage containers for equipment. A comfortable chair is a must. If possible, a waist-high surface is ideal for a paper cutter.

X - X-TRA EQUIPMENT THAT CAN MAKE SCRAPBOOKING EASIER, QUICKER, AND MORE FUN

1. Decorative scissors

2. Decorative papers

3. Templates and stencils

4. Rubber stamps

5. Stickers (available in images, letters and borders)

6. Die cuts

7. Circle & oval cutter

8. Punches

9. Colored pens

10. Decorative rulers

11. Pens in different colors with different sized points

12. White pencil

13. White, gold and silver pens

14. Calligraphy pens

15. Preprinted mats, die cuts and page titles

16. Computer clip art

17. Colored pencils

18. Blending pens and sticks

19. Chalks (pastels)

Y -YOU'RE...

Going to affect generations to come with your scrapbooks.

Z - ZYGOTE:

Host a get together with your friends

have fun and interactive presentation designed to inspire creativity and to share the many solutions that Creative Memories has for anyone who takes photos. As a host, you will be rewarded with free products and exclusive specials when hosting one of these workshops.

Invite your friends, family, co-workers and neighbors. Remember Creative Memories is not just about scrapbooking, anyone who takes photos will find something they love with Creative Memories as much as i do

If you would like more info contact me

I know this is late ..

but happy new year to you all , i havent forgotten about updating my blog it just i have had a few things happen the last month i have decided to become a CM consultant very soon i cant wait i so excited cant wait to try the new story book software ....i will post soon when i have signed up and hopfully that will be this week ....